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Walk 4 – Forts and Castles of Plymouth Sound
Plymouth has been an important naval port for many centuries, which has led to the building of a variety of defences to protect the port. This walk passes a number of these defences as it circles around the eastern side of Plymouth Sound; it also offers superb views over the Sound and its shipping.
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The walk is described as starting at Jennycliff, but could just as easily be started from Bovisand. Both locations are on the eastern coast of Plymouth Sound and both are accessible by bus from Plymouth Royal Parade. For detailed enquires call Traveline on 0870 608 2 608 or visit www.traveline.org.uk The walk is also accessible by ferry from Plymouth Barbican. This operates 7 days a week yearly. For details call 01752 480727.
OS Maps:
Refreshments: Jennycliff (café and toilets); Mount Batten (pub and toilets); Turnchapel (pub); Hooe (all facilities); Bovisand (seasonal café). Most of the walk follows the South West Coast Path or the Erme-Plym Trail, and is therefore well waymarked. |
The Walk
From the bus stop and car park at Jennycliff cross to the grassy area by the Jennycliff Café.
From here there is a superb view over Plymouth Sound. From left to right it encompasses the Breakwater, Penlee Point, Kingsand and Cawsand, Mount Edgcumbe, Drakes Island, the Tamar Estuary and Plymouth, with the Hoe foremost.
Walk along the grass on the top of the low cliff in the direction of Plymouth, heading towards a large white stone. Pass this, head for another large white stone waymarker, then to the path in the bottom corner of the field, signposted Breakwater.
The stones are part of Plymouth’s Waterfront Walkway project to enhance the Coast Path through the city.
The hill ahead is Mount Batten, a defensive site dating back to the Bronze Age. More recently it became a seaplane base, with squadrons of RAF flying boats. It ceased to be used by the RAF in 1992.
Keep to the path signed to the Breakwater, climbing the hill to Mount Batten.
The defensive tower on the summit dates to the 1650’s and the Dutch wars. There are views from here over the Sound, Sutton Harbour (Plymouth’s original port) and the Cattewater, which is the estuary of the River Plym.
Now go down the steps towards the Breakwater.
Mount Batten Breakwater stretches out into Plymouth Sound, giving splendid views, especially of the Citadel opposite. Yet another defensive work, the Citadel dates to the 1660’s.
Continue on the waterside path next to the black railings. This leads to the Ferry from Plymouth Barbican. (The route could be stared from here if arriving by ferry).
Pass the Ferry and continue on the waterside path, heading now alongside the Cattewater, the estuary of the River Plym.
Carefully follow the marked Coast Path for Turnchapel through the Yacht Haven area. At the top of the steps go left and left again. This leads into Turnchapel.
Turnchapel has an olde-worlde feel, reminiscent of its past as a village in its own right and a favourite retirement place for sea captains.
Go through Turnchapel, turning right at the end just before the MOD gates. Follow the lane and at the end turn right.
The water here is Hooe Lake, a tidal creek off the Plym Estuary. “Lake” in this name reflects an Old English word for a watercourse, not the modern meaning. Note the piers over the water, which carried the old railway branch from Plymouth to Turnchapel.
Turn left at the end, along the head of Hooe Lake, then bear left uphill through the old village of Hooe.
Hooe, like Turnchapel, is an old settlement in its own right. Note the old stone stile at the top of the hill. (You can get a bus from here back to Jennycliff or into Plymouth).
Reaching the top of the hill follow the left path then fork almost immediately right. At the junction at the end, go left downhill. The path leads to Radford Castle.
Radford Castle and Causeway were built in the mid-19th century. Despite its appearance, it is not a defensive site but was built as accommodation for the estate’s “keeper”. The estate was the home of the Harris family, local landowners and friends in their time of Sir Walter Raleigh.
The route has followed the Coast Path to here, and some very distinctive waymarks point the way. Just past Radford Castle the Coast Path is joined by two other routes on Devon’s long-distance footpath network, the West Devon Way to Tavistock or Okehampton and the Erme-Plym Trail to Ivybridge. Our route follows the Erme-Plym Trail from here.
Turn right alongside Radford Lake.
Radford Lake is the inland extension of Hooe Lake; the causeway means it is now brackish water rather than fully tidal.
When the path emerges into open parkland, formerly part of the Harris estate, leave the surfaced path and bear right onto another path which skirts Radford Lake. Now keep on the path ahead to arrive at a main road. Cross this at the central reservation and take the path on the opposite side signposted Erme-Plym Trail.
At the grassy area bear left. Follow the path past some houses then into woodland. Bear right at the first fork in the woods. Keep climbing through the woodland, bearing generally to the right.
After a stile, take the uphill path opposite. At the top turn left along the field-side track – still signposted Erme-Plym Trail. Continue along three fields, bear right to cross a stone stile, along another field then down some steps to arrive at a road.
This last section gives some good long-range views of Dartmoor over to the left. The route has now arrived on the edge of the old village of Staddiscombe. (Turn left and follow the lane for the village shop and buses to Plymouth).
To continue on the walk, we now leave the Erme-Plym Trail and return to the coast. At the foot of the steps turn right then bear almost immediately left along the minor lane. At the bottom go straight ahead next to a gate onto a stony track.
This quiet and peaceful track, running alongside a stream much of its route, was once the main access road into Bovisand.
After reaching the drive at the bottom bear slightly left along the path below and generally parallel to the road. This leads to the Coast Path at Bovisand. Turn right up the steps and continue ahead past the small car park, seasonal café and bus stop.
Fort Bovisand, along the road ahead, was one of the ring of forts built to defend Plymouth by Lord Palmerston in the 19th century. Never used in war, they became known as Palmerston Follies. Fort Bovisand is now a diving centre.
From Bovisand, follow the Coast Path back to Jennycliff. Bear right at the cottages then turn right up a flight of narrow steps before the second terrace of cottages. At the top the path crosses a bridge.
The bridge crosses a man-made cutting used for lowering supplies to Fort Bovisand.
Fort Bovisand soon comes into view down to the left. At the same time the view into the Sound and ahead to Plymouth opens out.
Another flight of steps leads to the walls of the old rifle range. Keep to the Coast Path, making sure you bear left through the wooden gate when the path approaches the road. A series of steps down then up leads to a field (wipe your feet on the mat!) and on to Jennycliff.
Further Information
Information on the South West Coast Path and other walking routes in Devon is available from www.discoverdevon.com and the Discover Devon Holiday Line 0870 608 5531 – please quote DP86 for an information leaflet on the SWCP or DP311 for Discover Devon Walking – A complete guide to walking trails in Devon (free publications). Information can also be ordered from Discover Devon Information Service, Westacott Rd, Barnstaple, EX32 8AW quoting references above.
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