Devon County Council

Dartmoor's western fringe contains two medieval treasures, Brentor church and the village of Lydford.  Add to that the spectacular natural feature of Lydford Gorge and Dartmoor's moorland scenery and the area's attractions become obvious.  All these are linked by one of Devon's long-distance walking routes, the West Devon Way, as it makes its way between Plymouth and Okehampton.

This walk follows the middle length of the West Devon Way between the villages of Mary Tavy and Lydford, and is designed to be used in conjunction with the regular bus service which runs parallel to the West Devon Way between Plymouth and Okehampton.

The Walk

Begin at Lydford by catching a southbound bus and alighting at Mary Tavy.

Lydford is a real historical gem and you should find the time to look around either at the beginning or end of the walk.  There may have been an early Celtic settlement here, but the present village is the result of a deliberate act of town planning in Saxon times.  The Saxon street layout and remains of the Saxon town walls may be seen.  Lydford was one of Devon's most important sites in those times and included a Royal Mint.   Later, it acquired a Norman fort and a medieval court and prison, now known as Lydford Castle.  There is more information in the church and on a board at the car park. The bus stop is opposite the Castle In by the car park.

Mary Tavy has a history as an important centre for tin and copper mining, many remains of which may be seen in and around the village.

Get off the bus at Mary Tavy and walk back, uphill.  A short way up the hill is the War Memorial.  Turn right here, into Bal Lane.

If you continue up the main road you will reach one of Mary Tavy's pubs, The Royal Standard, in about 300m/330 yards.

Bal Lane's name is an indication of the village's mining past.  Bal is a Cornish word for "mine", a name which could have been brought here by Cornish miners working in the locality.  Towards the bottom of the hill a house called Wheal Friendship will be seen on the left.  This is the site of one of Mary Tavy's mines, Wheal Friendship, allegedly one of the largest copper mines in the world for a while during the 19th century.  Wheal is another Cornish word, meaning "workings".

Just past Wheal Friendship the road bears sharp left at the house "Oak Hayes".  Turn right here, up a track.  [We are now on the line of the West Devon Way - look out for waymarks from now on].  Follow the obvious track until it arrives at the main road.

The area the track passes through is one of old mine workings. It can be explored using existing paths, but do not stray off as there are numerous old shafts.

Mary Tavy's village shop is a short way along the main road to the left.

Cross the road into the lane opposite, signed to Brentor.  Follow this road as it rises steadily out of the village.  In a while cross a cattle grid to reach the open moor, with the outline of Brentor church on the hilltop ahead.  Bear right off the road at the moor following a green track, the higher of two bearing off ahead.  [NB do not go sharp right by the wall].

The path rises gradually to a cairn, giving superb views of Brentor church.  The church, St. Michael de Rupe, is a significant landmark over much of West Devon, and features on the West Devon Way waymarks.  It occupies the plug of an old volcano, 1,100ft/335m above sea level and dates from the 12th century, the tower being added a little later.  The West Devon Way does not actually reach the church, which is well worth visiting in its own right.

There are also wide views back over Mary Tavy and her brother, Peter Tavy, and beyond into Dartmoor and down to the coast near Plymouth on a clear day.  This vantage point is Black Down, the most westerly extremity of Dartmoor's moorland.  Up to the right is Gibbett Hill.  Here the gallows stood, the corpses being left to hang after death to deter other potential wrongdoers.

Continue on the path ahead past the cairn.

As the path bears right and begins to descend, there are views over Brentor village and its "new" church, built in the 19th century in a more convenient location for the parishioners than the old one.

Follow the path as it descends to meet a narrow tarmac lane.  Continue ahead on this lane.  Where the lane turns sharp left, go straight ahead on the track over the moorland, past the Brentor and Mary Tavy millennium boundary stone.

Over to the left on the edge of the moorland are the lines of two parallel but separate railways.  One was the Southern Railway's main line from London to Plymouth and the other the Great Western's branch line from Tavistock to Launceston.  These two shadowed each other over the 9 miles between Tavistock and Lydford.  Both fell victim to the Beeching cuts of the 1960s and are now maintained as butterfly reserves.

Keep to the track as it passes another boundary stone.  Shortly afterwards it bears slightly to the left towards a cottage.  Fork right here onto a wide grassy path which continues ahead but bypasses the cottage and its grounds.

Continue on the most obvious path, crossing a couple of streams, and aiming to be close to the old railway fence on the left.  This leads to a corner of the open moor by a white cottage and a gate on the left.  Go through the gate and follow the track over the bridge.

This is Lydford Junction, and in the overgrown area to the left of the bridge is the site of the old station.  Underneath the bridge ran the main line between Waterloo and Plymouth.

Continue on the track to the road.

The preferred West Devon Way route now passes through the National Trust's Lydford Gorge to reach the village at Lydford.  The Gorge is usually open between April and November.  Alternatively, and during the winter, it is possible to walk along the road back to Lydford.  For this option turn right here and simply follow the road.  It would also be possible to start and finish the day here, since the bus to Mary Tavy from Lydford passes here.

For Lydford Gorge turn left at the road, over the bridge then right to the Gorge entrance.  [If you have a West Devon Way information pack there is a 60p reduction in the entrance cost.]

Walking through the Gorge is a superb experience but note that it can be slow and slippery going in places, especially where the path crosses wet rock.

After the entrance, follow the track down under a railway bridge [this one carried the Launceston branch] and then take either path down to the White Lady Waterfall.

Incidentally, even during the winter when the Gorge is closed, access to the waterfall is usually possible and is well worth the effort for the spectacle.

The Gorge has been cut by the River Lyd, and the path closely follows the river.  It offers a superb experience with the river and its rapids, small waterfalls and whirlpools, as well as the luxuriant woodland and the sound of birdsong.  However, to repeat, it can be slow and slippery going in places.  It also seems to have a micro-climate of its own and you are likely to reach the other end feeling rather warm!

Now a positive attraction, in the past the Gorge was a place to be avoided.  In the 18th century it was said to be inhabited by the Gubbins family, amongst whose vices was said to be making a meal of unwary travellers passing through the Gorge.

One of the notable stretches is in the middle, at Tunnel Falls, with its whirlpools as well as waterfalls.   Even more spectacular is the Devil's Cauldron at the far end, so be sure to follow the signs there.

After seeing the Devil's Cauldron follow the Way Out signs to the café and shop.

Your ticket entitles you to continue on the high path above the Gorge back to the White Lady.  You could do that, but will need to walk the Gorge itself again to return to the village.

[For the path back to the White Lady turn right just below the café].

To return to Lydford village go through the National Trust shop and past the car park to the road.  Turn left across the bridge and follow the path steeply up the hill to Lydford.

Further Information

An information pack on the West Devon Way is available from local Tourist Information Centres price £3.  It may also be obtained from the Discover Devon  Information Service, Westacott Road, Barnstaple, EX32 8AW, telephone 0870 608 5531, price £4.50 including p. and p.  [quote reference DP16; cheques payable to Devon County Council].

Free leaflets are available on Lydford Gorge from local National Trust outlets.  Information is also available from the Trust on 01822 820320.

For information on the wider network of walking routes in Devon obtain the free leaflet "Discover Devon - Walking" from local Tourist Information Centres or from the address above.   Alternatively, visit the website www.discoverdevon.com which has all the information and an order form.

OS maps for this walk:

• Explorer (1:25,000 scale) No. OL 28 Dartmoor
• Landranger (1:50,000 scale) No. 191 Okehampton North        Dartmoor

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