Devon County Council

One of Devon's long-distance walking routes is the Exe Valley Way, covering 45 miles between the estuary at Starcross and the highlands of Exmoor.  As it passes through the City of Exeter, the Exe Valley Way acts as a useful link between town and country.

This walk is based on the Exe Valley Way in Exeter, linking it to the western skyline overlooking the city.  It is entirely on surfaced lanes and paths, making it ideal for the weather conditions of winter and early spring.

Fact File

Exeter is an important centre for public transport and is easily reached by bus and train.  Much of the walk is close to various of the numerous bus routes linking the suburbs to the City Centre.  Car parking is plentiful, with the Cathedral and Quay Car Park especially handy for the walk. Walk length: 7 km/4.5 miles.  One long but fairly gentle climb; no stiles. Facilities: Exeter Quay (pub, refreshments, toilets, shop); Nadderwater (pub); Exwick (pub, shop).

The Walk

Although not quite on the route of the Exe Valley Way, the walk starts at Exeter Quay.

The site of the Quay was certainly in use in medieval times, when Exeter was an important port, and may go back to Roman times.  Notice especially the Custom House, built in 1681 as the first brick building in Exeter, and the high warehouses of the 1830's.  Next to the river is the canopy of the late 19th century fish market.  The Quay's old-world appearance led to the filming of the television series "The Onedin Line" here in the 1970's.

Pass the fish market and cross the wooden footbridge over the leat, then cross the Exe by the large metal footbridge (Cricklepit Bridge).  On the far side of Cricklepit Bridge turn right.  You are now on the Exe Valley Way heading towards Exmoor!  Pass the distinctively shaped roofs of the Malthouse.

The name of this pub gives a clue to its origins as part of a brewery, recorded in existence in 1792.

Keep to the riverside path and pass underneath the two Exe Bridges.  Immediately after the second, climb the steps on the left up the embankment.

The current bridges were built in 1969 and 1972 and replaced a bridge of 1905.  Previous bridges date back to medieval times and the remains of one may still be seen on the City side of the river.  

Cross the road at the traffic lights then head away from the river into Cowick Street.  Immediately on the left is St. Thomas railway station.

The station dates from 1846 when it was built as part of the atmospheric railway venture for trains without locomotives, powered by vacuum pipes.  (A revolutionary idea, but it unhappily didn't work).  Much of the station was dismantled in the 1970's.

Continue underneath the railway bridge.

This is St. Thomas, a separate medieval parish.  Opposite the church are the old Council offices and fire station, built in 1898 and thus becoming redundant within a year when St. Thomas was incorporated into Exeter in 1899.  The offices later became the St. Thomas Library.

St. Thomas Church, on the left, gave its name to the parish.  The current church is largely a rebuilding of 1657, after the earlier building was burned during the Civil War.  Originally a chapel stood here, rebuilt as a church in 1412 to serve the settlement which was growing even then.

The Church is perhaps best known for having its vicar hung from the tower in 1549 for taking part in the rebellion against the English Prayer Book.

Continue along the road to the junction and traffic lights at the First and Last.

This was the site of the turnpike gate on the road to and from Exeter.  It was removed in 1884.

At the junction, cross Buddle Lane and walk up Dunsford Road on the raised pavement ahead.

Just after passing Bowhay Lane is Bowhill House, the remains of a 15th Century manor house.  Building was begun in 1422 for Richard Holland, landowner and MP.  It is now in the care of English Heritage.

Continue to the crossroads at the top of the hill.  Turn right here into Barley Lane.

The walk has now reached Exeter's western skyline.  The views over the City from here are very extensive.  Barley Lane is almost certainly on the line of a prehistoric ridgeway road.

After some 650m/nearly half a mile the road forks.  Take the narrower lane to the left, still signed as Barley Lane, the continuation of the old ridgeway.

The skyline views open up to show the top of the Exe Estuary as well as the City.  As the ridge road continues, views over the open country stretching away to the west on the left also open out.

After a while Barley Lane descends to a road junction.  Bear left ahead on the slightly busier road.  After 180m/200 yards is a fork.  At the fork a narrow lane goes off to the right (Exwick Lane); turn down here.

This is the hamlet of Nadderwater.  For the local pub, continue ahead at the fork.

Continue down Exwick Lane.  As views of the University Estate and the prominent Exeter College open up the lane drops steeply.  At the junction follow downhill to the left.

On the right here is Cleeve House (also spelt Cleve or Cleave). The house dates to the 17th century, with later additions.  It has had numerous influential landowners over the years, as well as being the local headquarters of the Guide Dogs for the Blind Association in more recent years.

The lane now bears right and continues to descend.  On meeting Gloucester Road bear right downhill then fork left into Exwick Hill.  Keep left of the school and pass between some metal bollards.  Continue downhill, crossing Moorland Way to more bollards to walk down Exwick Hill into the old part of Exwick village.

Notable on the left is the Hermitage, which has origins as a 16th century cottage, considerably rebuilt in 1830 by a local landowner as a desirable residence.  Further down is the Square, the site of earlier cloth works for bleaching, rolling, winding, etc.

At the bottom of Exwick Hill turn right and pass the Village Inn.  Turn left into Station Road at St. Andrew's Church.

The church was built in the 1840s as a local chapel because it was so far from the main church at St. Thomas.  It was added to in 1873.  The style is typically Victorian.

Straight ahead along Station Road and over the level crossing is St. Davids Station.  However, to return to the Quay turn right just before the first bridge.  This is the Exe Valley Way again, now heading towards the estuary.  For the most direct route bear left down to the waterside walkway and follow this until it rises to a footbridge across the channel.  Continue ahead then shortly afterwards fork left to what is now the riverside.

The Exe Valley Way keeps to the higher path from Station Road, which bears away from the waterside; turn left at the next path junction.  At the following path junction bear slightly left to pass underneath the railway.  The path now bears left towards the Exe.  Turn right and down the slope for the riverside path.

The waterway next to the direct route, from Station Road is part of Exeter's Flood Relief Channel, built in the early 1970's after disastrous floods in 1960.  At the footbridge the channel joins the Exe adjacent to one of the river's weirs, Blackaller Weir. This is shown on the earliest detailed Exeter map of 1587.

Now follow the riverside path under the Exe Bridges back to Cricklepit Bridge and the Quay.

Information on the Exe Valley Way and other walking routes in Devon is available from www.discoverdevon.com and the Discover Devon Holiday Line 0870 608 5531 – please quote DP14 for an information leaflet on the Exe Valley Way (£1.50 inc. p&p) or DP311 for Discover Devon Walking –  A complete guide to walking trails in Devon (free publication).  Information can also be ordered from Discover Devon Information Service, Westacott Rd, Barnstaple, EX32 8AW quoting references above.

Printer Friendly Version of Walk (694KB - pdf help)