The development of nearly all the watering-places in the kingdom may with truth be said to date from the introduction of railway travelling. Prior to that epoch an annual visit to the sea-side was a luxury almost exclusively reserved for the nobility and landed proprietary, by whom a frequent change of residence, alternating between town and country was regarded as an essential in fashionable life. The hard-working student or professional man, might, indeed, at much sacrifice of means and personal comfort, avail himself of such a delightful source of relaxation; or the invalid, at the recommendation of his medical adviser, might be persuaded to take a journey to some place on the coast, in the hope of prolonging existence, or recovering from some tedious and wearisome illness. But to the bulk of the middle-classes residing in towns this species of enjoyment, now so common was almost, if not altogether denied; and unless in places easily accessible to the sea quite unthought of. The difficulty of travel, and the vast preparations necessary for anything partaking of a lengthened journey, were in themselves formidable obstacles; beside which the stay-at-home habits of our forefathers were unfavourable to excursions of this sort. Connected with these were other causes of a pecuniary nature which may in those days have curbed the desire often, no doubt, ardently experienced to indulge in a season of sea-bathing. The amazing wealth that has poured into the country during the last half-century, coupled with the extreme facility of locomotion we have enjoyed in the interim, have, however, created quite a revolution in the habits of the English people; and now, a few weeks' or months' sojourn at the sea-side is regarded as indispensable by most families of respectability or standing. Every nook and corner of our coasts have been ransacked to furnish sites available for the purpose of bathing. Fishing hamlets have been transformed as by an enchanter's wand into populous towns, and venerable villages regard with an astonishment little short of awe the grand erections and the rushing trains, which have superseded the few humble dwellings and tardy means of communication familiar with their early days.
The first part of the kingdom that felt the effects of the new impulse was the South Coast of Devon. Its peculiarly mild and equable temperament had long pointed it out as possessing qualities eminently adapting it as a residence for invalids and persons of delicate constitutions; while its broad expanse of ocean and highly diversified scenery recommended it to the summer tourist and visitor, as a place where every yearning of our nature could be supplied. Hence arose the many summer resorts which now stud the coast from one extremity to the other, and although similar influences have been the means of calling into existence innumerable rivals in other parts of this and neighbouring counties, the watering-places of South Devon still maintain their pre-eminence.

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Railway tunnel at Dawlish

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The railway brings more visitors to Dawlish

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Some years ago, before railways were constructed (at least in this county), Sidmouth was, par excellence, the Watering place of Devonshire. Royalty patronised it, died in it, was born in it --- for did not the Duke of Kent sojourn in Woolbrooke Glen, and 'give up the ghost' there; and was not Queen Victoria born there ? If not, the early days of her childhood were passed in Sidmouth; and I believe the fair town has still a share in her royal heart. When the Duke and Duchess of Kent arrived in the town, of course the inhabitants were much impressed with the honour. They appointed a deputation to wait upon their royal highnesses, and one of the spokesmen addressing the Duke, said --- ' I hope your Lordship and Mrs Kent are well ! The Duke smiled and 'was happy to say that he and the Duchess were very well.' At this gracious answer the aforesaid spokesman rubbed his hands and exclaimed, 'that's brave !'...

Time and weather permitting, I like the journey from the old city to Sidmouth better than that to most other watering places on the coast, although it may be more inconvenient. I have gone thither wholly by road, and partly by rail and road. Very pleasant is the journey either way. When last I visited Sidmouth I took rail to Ottery-road, per South Western Railway, and thence 'bussed' it through the somewhat famous town famous town of Ottery St. Mary (made so chiefly by the hallowed name of Coleridge), and over several miles of pleasant turnpike road, with hedgerows on either side, festooned with the wild-rose and honeysuckle, and away in the distance noble heights, sloping woodlands and green ---now, by drought, rather yellow --- meadows. A nine miles' ride outside a 'bus,' on a bright summer morning, with agreeable companions, was not the least element of enjoyment on my day's outing

Mogridge, Theodore H. A descriptive sketch of Sidmouth Sidmouth : J. Harvey, 1836. pp. 121-124

It is well said that 'a man may be merry upon principle, and occasionally take a laugh as others do a walk, for the benefit of his health.' Cheerfulness and hilarity, when unprovoked by unwholesome incentives, undegraded by brutality, or untainted by licentiousness, may be prescribed as one of the means of urging a lazy circulation. Sidmouth is much admired by those who are inclined to mingle retirement with the occasional amusement.
Hunting. Two packs of hounds are kept in the place, by James Peel Cockburn, Esq. and Henry Carew, Esq. ; and two packs in the immediate neighbourhood, by the Right Honourable Lord Rolle, and John Guppy, Esq. Information at what place and time the hounds throw off, may generally be obtained by referring to a card at the reading room or at the post office.
Racing. There is a race course upon Salcombe hill, which however, is but seldom used by the lovers of the Turf.
Fishing The river Otter, a few miles from hence will furnish sufficient employment for those who think with Issac Walton, that,
'Of recreation there is none
So free as fishing is alone;
All other pastimes do no less
Than mind the body both possess;
My hand alone my work can do,
so I can fish and study too.'
Shooting Save the sport resulting from the destruction of Sea Gulls, Merles, Cormorants, and other aquatic birds which frequent the coast, the stranger sportsman will find that it is the same here as in other places, that although the game is plentiful, his gun will be useless, unless he has obtained the permission of some landed proprietors to shoot over their grounds.
Another species of healthy and manly amusement consists in the game of Cricket, for which the Fort Field is appropriated. The Club, consisting of many of the gentlemen of Sidmouth and its vicinity, meet every Tuesday at eleven o' clock, from May until the end of August; and during an interval of the game dine together in the cricket house, a comfortable and convenient building erected in the field by the members.
For Sailing and Fishing in the bay, every facility is furnished, by the careful and obliging fishermen of the place. Picnic parties visit the Marine Villa of T.L. Fish Esq. (Take a tour of The Marine Villa, the residece of Mr T.L. Fish Esq.) pedestrian, assinarian, and equestrian excursions to the interesting places in the adjacent country hereafter particularized, furnish other pleasurable employment of time.
Above all many of the more serious and reflecting part of the company, will perhaps find the circulating libraries replete with the most rational and permanent pleasure. There are two established here, and the terms of subscription are extremely moderate; one kept by Mr. Harvey, in the Fore Street, which is regularly supplied with the most esteemed and popular works, in various departments of literature, as soon as published; and the other by Mr. Cawsey, pleasantly situated near the York Hotel, facing the sea; here the daily papers are to be read, and it is a fashionable lounge for both Ladies and Gentlemen. There is likewise a good billiard table. These with Balls held at the London Hotel Assembly Rooms, occasional Concerts, Promenades at the Cricket House, Fort Fields, every Tuesday evening during the season, and frequent Routs given by private parties, form the round of fashionable amusements of this place.

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The Royal Baths, York Hotel, Stocker & Longmore's New Baths, York Terrace etc.

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Sidmouth, from Salcombe hill.

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Esplanade, Sidmouth

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Fishing

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Shooting

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Cricket match

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Picnic by the sea

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It sleeps, --- for this expression can alone convey its calmness, --- in a well sheltered and well wooded recess, nearly midway on the magnificent coast which borders the English Channel, between Lyme Regis in Dorset, on the East, and the further extremity of Torbay; and forms one of that delightful series of summer resorts for the seekers of recreation, or winter retreats for the invalid, to be found also at Lyme, Seaton, and Sidmouth on the one side, and at Exmouth, Dawlish, Teignmouth, and Torquay on the other. Its distance from London is about 165 miles; a large portion of which is now however travelled over by the western railway; from the town of Honiton it is 16 miles; 6 miles from Sidmouth; 4 from Exmouth; 9 from Topsham, and 14 from Exeter. The village may be briefly described. It includes about 250 houses; a few of which are freehold, the remainder built on leasehold land, belonging to the property of the late Lord Rolle, and as a few ground leases are now granted, the advantages of its never being over-built may be hoped for, and reasonably expected. The main street, extending from east to west, is cheerful, clean and airy, it consists of a succession of cottages, which present an appearance of simplicity, cleanness, and comfort, interspersed with houses of greater importance, and shops in the various department of trade.

Tickler (alias Elias Tozer) Devonshire sketches, including pixie lore, ... Exeter : Devon Weekly Times Office, 1871. p.29-30

There is every facility for bathing here, [Exmouth] under certain Local Board regulations. The proprietors, or 'proprietresses' of the bathing machines are permitted to occupy a portion of the beach, from which bathers, who do not hire a machine, are not allowed to dip. Outside a certain point however, persons may bath to their hearts' content. Some mistakes are now and again made; and woe betide the unlucky wight who ventures to trespass on the ground allotted to the reticent 'proprietresses' of these bathing machines. I was peacefully engaged in floating on the 'ocean waves,' one fine morning, when I was suddenly made aware of a great stir in my vicinity. Looking about I saw the stalwart figure of a man, who had presumptously (sic) undressed near the machines, who was floundering about like an innocent porpoise, thinking, I suppose, that the sea was 'free to all.' He was not permitted to indulge in this happy hallucination long, for the 'female proprietresses' were down upon him; and he was very soon glad to escape from the sea to his clothes, into which he quickly got and 'bolted.' Ambitious bathers sometimes come to grief. A facetious tradesman of Exeter, not a hundred miles from Queen-street, being unable to swim, and not relishing the taunts of small boys, hired a boat for the purpose of bathing 'out to sea.' He had provided himself with a 'belt,; which was warranted to sustain an elephant in any water. Unbounded faith in this apparatus led our adventurous friend to descend into deep water. If the 'belt' was capable of sustaining an elephant, it could not float him, so down he went to the bottom. The boatman, alarmed, instantly thought of the mussel dredger, an article having several sharpish prongs attached to it. With this instrument of torture our poor friend was raised from a 'watery grave,' and he is now the bearer of marks very similar to those which used to be borne by heretics in the 'good old times' of torture and persecution.

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Budleigh Salterton, from East Cliff.

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Bathing machines.

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Bathing machines.

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About 150 years ago Exmouth was only a small hamlet occupied by fishermen. It was brought into repute by one of the Judges of the circuit who retired thither to bathe, when in a very infirm state of health, and received great benefit.

Freeman'svisitors' hand-book to Exmouth. Exmouth: T. Freeman, 1872. pp.13-14

A few words with respect to the advantages of Exmouth as a watering-place. And first with respect to Climate, there can be no doubt that this town has a great deal to recommend it. It affords a climate more bracing than that of Torquay, while at the same time it is sheltered by a high-background from the severity of east and north-east winds. The atmosphere here is also less humid than in most other places of the South of Devon, the rain-clouds being largely diverted from it by the opposite range of the Haldon Hills. 'A Guide to the Sea-bathing places of England,' published in 1813, thus speaks of Exmouth: --- 'The soil around Exmouth is dry and well-wooded, but not so much encumbered with trees as to check the circulation of air; which may, perhaps, be one cause why fogs are less frequent here than in many other places. The climate is so mild that winter seldom begins till after Christmas, neither does it usually continue above six weeks; and even during that period, deep snow is unknown, and severe frost uncommon. From the piercing winds of March, however, Exmouth is by no means exempt, though less exposed to their influence than either Teignmouth, Dawlish, or Sidmouth. The night air at Exmouth is peculiarly dry and warm; the skies, during summer, resemble those in Italy; and the climate, though far inferior to that of Pisa, is in some respects like it by tending to promote insensible perspiration; and from its relaxing quality always befriending weak lungs.' ... Mr Rammel, Government Sanitary Inspector, reported, in 1850, of Exmouth: 'The town lies completely open to the prevailing winds, which blowing from the south-west, are --- although occasionally extremely violent --- invariably mild in temperature, and it is in a great measure screened by the high land in its rear from the colder winds of the opposite quarter.'
Dr. Shapter, in his work 'On the Climate of the South of Devon,' says of Exmouth: 'The climate partakes of the same character as that of the district, modified by the sea only. An inhabitant, to whose opinion I would defer thinks it more equable than any on the coast; and that this may in some measure be owing to its exemption from the damp vapours so often experienced in the valley towns.'
With respect to moisture, the same learned gentleman remarks: 'But for an occasional sea-fog, after the heat of a summer's day, Exmouth is free from mists and damp vapours; and, in common with Budleigh Salterton, is less liable to rain than other places in the neighbourhood. Rain clouds from the Atlantic are frequently seen coming, as it were straight towards it, but influenced by the high lands to the northward, from Berry Head to Haldon, sweep by, discharging themselves to the interior of the country.' Again he says, 'Exmouth will be found particularly serviceable as a resort for weakly children and those of a scrofulous constitution, and where change is required in the debility consequent upon attacks of fever, or during convalescence after other disease. ...
The Death Rate of a town is the best indicator of its healthiness or unhealthiness, and whoever takes the trouble to examine the Returns of the Registrar of England, on the 'Mortality in the principle watering Places during the Spring Quarter of 1873,' will therein discover that Exmouth shares with two other places (Hove and Bognor) the enviable eminence of having a smaller death-rate than any other of the (to quote the Registrar General's words) ' 47 sea-side or inland watering places to which a considerable proportion of our town residents resort at this time of the year for healthy relaxation.'

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The Strand.

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Teneriffe Walk.

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View from Beacon Hill.

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Exmouth from the sea wall.

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